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When curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary achievement.